Curious in Sevilla (Seville)



When I posted the Foodie Route ‘Along the Costa de la Luz of Cádiz’, I mentioned that I would come back with more about fascinating Andalucía (Andalusia).  I chose this time:  Sevilla, its enchanting capital.  It is the third most visited Spanish city after Barcelona and Madrid.  If you have not been there, add it to your bucket list!

I found Sevilla to have an appealing vibe.  It is hard to describe, but there you can feel a unique Spanish atmosphere.  It is a place where you can sense your thoughts about Spain.img_6966

It was not difficult to get lost in its charming, labyrinth streets.  One evening, strayed a bit from the route, we found two fantastic tapas bars in the San Lorenzo neighborhood:


Eslava Bar – I had this one in my notes.  One of the busiest places for tapas and probably one of the best in town.  The kitchen in Eslava Bar has managed to merge successfully traditional flavors with modern accents.  Something trendy these days in gastronomy but not always easy to achieve.

Some of its tapas have been awarded the local prize “Sevilla en Boca de Todos”.  Among others, we tried their “slow-cooked egg served on boletus cake with caramelized wine reduction,” which won the first prize in 2010.  We found it heavenly!

This tapa was awarded the first prize in 2010

Although the place was packed, the staff was efficient and friendly.

On the way to our hotel, we stopped for a nightcap … Just a few steps from Eslava Bar, we found

Casa Ricardo – A house founded in 1898 as a grocery shop.  Today it is a traditional tapas bar, serving typical Sevillian cuisine.  The setting:  An old bar fully decorated with religious elements, creating an unexpected atmosphere, still not inexplicable in Sevilla.

Ricardo slicing Iberico ham

Do not expect a written menu; the waiters or Ricardo himself will tell you what the daily specials are.  They were treating everybody like esteemed patrons.

Iberian Pork Shoulder Mini Burger — Note that your “bill” will be written on the counter top

We felt so welcome that we stay for more than just the intended nightcap … and returned once again before leaving Sevilla.

El Bistrot del Alabardero – This bistro is run in a beautiful palace in the old town district.  Students of the hotel school of Sevilla are in charge of the kitchen, and you will find a very good menu for an excellent price.


We really enjoyed all the courses.

They also offer tapas and have a restaurant, where you can eat à la carte.  A small seven-room hotel is part of the concept.


img_6948El Rinconcillo (1670) – With its fame of being the oldest bar in Sevilla, it is mentioned in most guides and is not a sneek peak at all.  Nevertheless, I am including it as well, because, if there is an historic bar, this one is truly emblematic.

I do not have the impression that much has changed here for many years, not even many of the bottles on the shelves.

We tried two traditional dishes with a “Coronel”–that is the special way a glass of wine is called in El Rinconcillo.

Spinat with Chickpeas
Slow-Cooked Iberian Pork Cheeks

At this bar, the price of what you have ordered is written with chalk on the countertop in front of where you are standing …  When you are finished, all is added up, and you can pay.


Unquestionably, this is an interesting bar to visit if you are in Sevilla.  If you would like to read a bit more about this iconic corner, check this post “El Rinconcillo – The Oldest Bar in Seville”.

Not to miss if you are also into sightseeing:

  • Real Alcázar – Started to be built in the 9th century, this is the oldest active royal palace in Europe. The Moorish interiors and enchanting gardens are breathtaking.  Buy your ticket online and try to get there early in the morning to avoid the big tour groups.

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  • Cathedral – Built originally as a mosque in the 12th century, today it is the largest Gothic cathedral and the third largest church in the world.
  • Giralda – This is the name of the cathedral’s bell tower. It was formerly the minaret, and today is one of Sevilla’s landmarks.  Climb it up for great views.
  • Metropol Parasol – Modern architecture (museum, public square, market, shops, restaurants, etc.) in the old quarter.  It claims to be the largest wooden structure in the world.

4 thoughts on “Curious in Sevilla (Seville)

  1. Gracias por alimentar tu blog tan asiduamente. Me encanta. Lo transfiero a mi hermano que piensa ir a Andalucia.
    Estuve en Mauritius, pero no del mismo lado que Mariana, pero logramos vernos 2 veces (una comida y a penas un café otro dia). Nos encanto e hicimos varias de las cosas que Uds tambien hicieron: L’Otentic y la Maison d’Eté…todo maravilloso. Estuvimos paseando bastante.

    Un abrazo y que festejen bien el dia del pisco este sabado!


    1. Chris, me alegro que te guste y que te esté siendo útil el blog. Estaré colgando más sobre la bella Andalucía …
      Qué rico que pudiste verte con Mariana, aunque sea cortito. Hace bien verse las caras ;-D
      Sí, L’Otentic y la Maison d’Eté, fueron mis favoritos! Para regresar, no?
      Besote y de hecho tomaremos un pisquito el sábado …


  2. Ai chicas, lindo que ambas ya nos hayan visitado, les haya gustado nuestro paraíso y ¡quieran volver!

    Patty: I loved this post! I have not been to Sevilla. No excuse is valid for this sad statement after living almost 30 years in Europe. Well… another one to add for a future trip. Such beautiful places! Thank you for keeping those foodies in us so alive… besos. Mariana

    Liked by 1 person

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